WEB ARTICLE by DREW FRITTS  

Make Your Own Bit Bucket

A stable, waterproof, non-rusting receptacle of some sort is necessary to deposit all of the little bits of glass that are pulled off of the marble with tweezers during the formation of the marble. Some people use glass jars filled with water for this purpose. However, my style of work requires that I frequently drop my steel punties into the bit bucket, which is very hard on glass jars. Therefore, I need something a little less breakable.

I originally started with one of the small size coffee cans, but learned very quickly that it doesn't take nearly as long as I had thought for a coffee can to rust through. In my search for an inexpensive steel or aluminum container I started using a pop can -- they're aluminum, so they won't rust, and they're free!

As it turns out, a pop can with the top cut off and the edges folded in works very well as long as the punties being used aren't larger than 1/8" in diameter. Unfortunately, larger, heavier punties tend to tip an unsupported pop can over at the most inopportune times. Therefore, I recommend making a simple base for the pop can to keep it from overturning.

Finished Bit Bucket with Base

SUPPLIES AND TOOLS NEEDED: 

• Plaster of Paris, Hydrocal or Auto Body Putty. All will work. Hydrocal is stronger than Plaster of Paris. Auto body putty is stronger still, and it sets up much more quickly. However, it has a very strong odor for several days. If you use body putty, use it in a well-ventilated area, and then let the piece rest for several days before taking it into your shop.
   
• Cardboard Peanut Can - The short, wide variety that typically hold about 12 to 14 ounces of nuts.
  
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• A 12-ounce Can of Pop - Unopened.
   
• A Bubble Level - optional.
   
• Needle Nose Pliers
   
• Tin Snips or Old Scissors
   

PREPARE THE BASE: 

    The base is cast inside the cardboard peanut can using Plaster of Paris, Hydrocal, or Auto Body Putty. Peanut cans are especially nice for this application because they're coated on the inside so they're waterproof. And, because they're made of cardboard they can be peeled off once the cast base is dry.

1. Open the can of nuts and remove the nuts to another container. Then rinse out the can and dry it with a towel.
    
2. Use your finger to spread a very light coating of petroleum jelly over the entire bottom half of a full 12-ounce pop can. This will keep the casting medium from sticking to the can.
   
    
3. Mix up your casting medium of choice according to the directions on the package. Mix enough to fill 1-1/2 inches of the peanut can. If you're using plaster or Hydrocal, wait until it starts to set up before proceeding to Step 4. It should be about the consistency of soft-serve ice cream. If you're using body putty, proceed to Step 4 immediately upon mixing the putty and hardener to a consistent color throughout.

   Tip:  Make sure you mix body putty on something that is either disposable, or will only be used for mixing body putty in the future. I use a 2-foot square scrap of Formica-covered countertop that I keep specifically for working with body putty. The hard, smooth surface makes mixing with a putty knife very easy, and it can be cleaned fairly well by scraping it with the putty knife before the putty sets up completely. If you only expect to use body putty a couple of times, a scrap piece of plywood will work just fine.
    

4. Turn the pop can over and fill the bottom indentation with casting medium. 
   
   Then pour the remainder of the casting medium into the peanut can until it's about 1-1/2 inches deep.
   
    
5. Quickly turn the pop can over and push it down into the center of the casting medium. Don't push the can all the way to the bottom. Some thickness below the can will add strength to the casting. 
   
    
6. Look at the pop can from directly above and center it within the peanut can.
   Then use a bubble level set on top of the can to see if the can is straight. 
   
   Make adjustments as needed and then let it rest until the casting medium has cured. The full pop can has enough weight to stay down in the casting medium without being weighted. It's also under pressure so its sides won't collapse as the casting medium hardens.
    
7. After the casting has cured, remove the can of pop by twisting and pulling it. 
   
    
8. Remove the rim of the peanut can with a pair of pliers. Then peel the cardboard off of the casting. 
    
9. Smooth off any rough edges or corners using a rasp, file or knife.
    
   

   PREPARE THE POP CAN: 

10. Cut off the top of an empty pop can using tin snips or old scissors. Cut just above the top shoulder where the sides bend in to meet the top of the can.  
    
    
11. Using needle nose pliers, fold about 3/16" of the cut edge down into the can. Do this just a little at a time, all the way around the edge.  
    
    
12. Continue to go around the edge, folding it down a little more each time until the top edge is approximately perpendicular to the sides of the can. 
    
    
13. Use the sides of the jaws of the needle nose pliers to bend the cut edge the rest of the way into the can. Do this by pressing the cut edge down, a little at a time, all the way around. Continue going around until the rim is folded completely over. 
    
    
14. Use the sides of the jaws of the pliers to smooth the cut edge down. Do this by rubbing the pliers' jaws around the inside of the top edge of the can. 
    
    
15. Finally, use the widest part of the pliers' jaws (without using the wire cutter) to crimp the folded edge down all the way around. This should leave a safe, non-sharp edge. 
    
    
16. Insert the can into the base.
    
    
17. Fill it with water and it's ready to use!